Places Visited:
Mobile, Alabama.
Bay St. Louis, Mississippi.
Lafayette,
Abbeville, Breaux Bridge and Lake Charles, Louisiana.
Monday, April 28,
2003
We drove 67-miles to Chickasabogue Park (operated by Mobile County Commission)
251-574-2267
$16 per-night full hookup with 50amps: Mobile, Alabama
We
left Pensacola around 10:00 this morning. Our trip this time is
going to be
a little different than normal. My 80-year old Mother is
with us. Three of
us traveling in our motor home is going to be
different, how different none
of us know right now. Everyone is
hoping that we all adjust to the closeness
that motor home living
demands. We still intend to have fun, fun, fun from
daylight until
the midnight hour. That is what it is all about isn't it?
Mobile,
Alabama 60-miles to the west of Pensacola was our destination.
My brother,
Steve, had invited us to stop by his place on our way
west. He had our afternoon
and night planned for us. Upon arriving
in Mobile we headed directly to Chickasabogue
Park and connected up
the motor home. Without wasting any time we headed back
downtown to
the EXPLOREUM and IMAX theatre where we met Steve. The IMAX movies
were
Space Station and Lewis & Clark. We enjoyed both IMAX movies
before heading
to my brother's house to pick up his wife, Diane, and
then out to Cock of the
Walk for a catfish dinner complete with their
signature coleslaw and collard
greens.
After dinner Steve & Diane gave us a car tour of greater Mobile
complete
with a drive by the "Dew Drop Inn" restaurant some say was
the inspiration
for Jimmy Buffett's song "Cheese Burger in Paradise".
Buffett is
a Mobile native. When he was growing up, the Dew Drop Inn
was "the"
place in Mobile to go for cheeseburgers! Now we have viewed
what some say is
the inspiration for that song! Today the place is
more noted for hot dogs than
cheeseburgers.
Tuesday, April 29, 2003
We drove 95-miles from Mobile,
Alabama to Casino Magic RV-Park, Bay St. Louis, Mississippi. (N30º 20.119'
W 89º
21.220') Site #50 50amp full hookup $24.61
This morning found
us traveling in the motorhome from Mobile, Alabama
to Bay St. Louis, Mississippi.
We stopped for lunch at our favorite
place in Pass Christian, Mississippi.
We just love this place and
wanted Mother to experience it with us. As luck
would have it they
are closed on Tuesdays. For those of you visiting the area
you need
to try the Harbor View Café in Pass Christian, Mississippi
on highway
90 at the Harbor (N30º 18.723' W84º 14.823'). There is
a large
parking lot across the street that we use for the motor home and car
while
dining. Their shrimp Po Boy is served with over 30 lightly
battered, fried
shrimp all for only $5.95. It doesn't get much
better, when they are open.
Since our favorite place was closed we
opted for the buffet at Casino Magic
not far away.
We were thinking about boondocking but opted for full hookups
since it
was warm and humid. The parking lot at Casino Magic is perfect for
boondocking
and usually has around 10 motor homes. Not today, it was
too warm. The RV-Park
regularly fills up on weekends but spots are
available today. Casino Magic
is the closest casino to New Orleans
plus it has a really nice RV-Park. Many
RV'ers stay at Casino Magic
RV-Park and drive the 51-miles into New Orleans.
A Casino Magic hallmark is free entertainment between 7:30 and 11:00
each
night. Tonight the featured entertainment was a 75-minute set by
Pete Fountain
and his Jazz Band from New Orleans. After Pete and his
band completed their
set another great band entertained until the wee
hours. For those of you contemplating
a stay on Mississippi's Gulf
Coast this year you may want to remember that
Pete Fountain will be
performing "free" concerts in Casino Magic
every Tuesday and Wednesday
for the foreseeable future. It seems that 72-year
old Pete has sold
his place in New Orleans and "retired" to Bay St.
Louis. Well, kind
of retired. He and his group of musicians are now performing
two
nights a week at Casino Magic. Tonight was his first performance at
Casino
Magic and a large group of fellow musicians from New Orleans
came over for
the show. Some were invited to come to the stage and
perform a number or two.
We did not know any of the musicians but all
the Jazz aficionados knew them
and applauded wildly.
All together we donated $8.20 to the one armed bandits.
Wednesday,
April 30, 2003
We drove 171 miles from Bay St Louis, Mississippi to Acadian
RV-Park operated by the City of Lafayette. N30º 15.340' W91º
59.246':
Site #70 with 50amps and water for $9.00 in a wonderful shady
Park within several
miles of downtown Lafayette.
Our destination today was Lafayette, Louisiana.
We chose to travel on
I-10 and I-12 as we worked our way west. Louisiana has
done much
improvement to the interstate system. Not so long ago the ride across
Louisiana
on I-10 and I-12 was absolutely abysmal, at that time the
interstate was more
akin to an advanced mogul slope than an interstate
highway. Today the ride
from Slidell to Lafayette was great. Once
west of the Atchafalaya swamp/basin
we stopped at the Boudin Shop exit
115 on I-10. They have fried crawfish boudin
balls to die for. We
knew that this "shack" was something Mother
had to experience. In
addition to the crawfish boudin balls Mother sampled
regular link
boudin, red beans rice and sausage. I am proud of Mother for jumping
in
there and experiencing new delicacies. You can say that she is
going to return
to Panama City as a cosmopolitan girl!
After setting up the motorhome in
Lafayette we got in the Saturn and
headed to the wading bird rookery along
the southern edge of Lake
Martin.
The rookery is actually called the
Nature Conservancy's Cypress Island
Rookery. For those of you with GPS &
mapping programs it is located
at N30º 12.204' W91º 54.034 on Rookery
Road just off SR-353 about
8-miles south west of Breaux Bridge. In the spring
thousands of wading
birds (Rosette Spoon Bills, Little Blue Herons, Great Egrets,
Snowy
Egrets, White Ibis and night herons both Black Headed and Yellow
Headed
congregate in the tree filled swamp to raise their young. Every
tree and bush
is filled to capacity with nests and courting birds.
They are drawn to this
location every year because the swamp beneath
the rookery is crawling with
huge alligators. If a baby chick falls
out of the nest it will become "gator-lunch".
However, the alligators
keep the rookery free from marauding raccoons, opossums
and mink that
would eat the young as well as the eggs. It is a chance the birds
have
to take in order to keep their nesting sites safe from those
hungry mammals.
Not only did we see thousands and thousands
(literally) of nesting birds we
were able to see the huge alligators.
By huge I am talking alligators 10 to
13 feet long! Mother also got
to view her first nutria. Nutria's are large
(up to 40#) South
American semiaquatic rodents with webbed hind feet. They
were
introduced to Louisiana by the McIlhenny (Tabasco Sauce) family. They
have
now become a major pest in the state and trappers are paid $3.00
per-tail turned
into the State. Nutria look like a beaver and their
fur is nearly identical.
For
dinner we took Mom to Mulate's in Breaux Bridge. Mulate's is a
famous Cajun
restaurant featuring live Cajun music and a dance floor.
Mother continued her
cosmopolitan streak by having fried crawfish and
frog's legs. No, Mother did
not join in the dancing. That will have
to come later.
Thursday, May
1, 2003
Acadian RV-Park operated by the City of Lafayette. N30º 15.340'
W91º
59.246': Site #70 with 50amps and water for $9.00 in a wonderful
shady
Park within several miles of downtown Lafayette.
Lafayette is home
to the Jean Lafitte National Park Acadian Cultural
Center. Like Yellowstone
the job of this National Park is to
safeguard for all time the National Treasures
of our great country.
Jean Lafitte Park here in Lafayette is showcasing Acadian
history. We
watched several movies. One told of the expulsion of the Acadian's
from
Nova Scotia and the other about how they adapted in their new
home here in
the swamps of Louisiana.
Next on our schedule was Vermillion Ville, a Cajun-Creole
Heritage
Park. Vermillion Ville is a series of preserved period houses (1790
to
1890). Each of the houses has a docent in period dress performing
a normal
function of life from that era. One was conducting a cooking
class, another
was spinning cotton, another was whittling, while
another was a fiddle player
and yarn teller.
In the schoolhouse we were reminded that school children
were
prohibited from speaking French in school. An early 20th century
Louisiana
law forbade the speaking of Southwest Louisiana's principal
language even on
the school playground!
While watching the cotton spinning demonstration
we all tried our hand
at extracting cotton seeds from the raw cotton. It was
a laborious
process. The docent told us that it was a job for the children
every
night. Each child had to fill their shoes with seeds. That way the
bigger
and older children had to extract more seeds. I can say for
certain that Eli
Whitney's cotton gin was a "LABOR SAVING" device like
no other! After
the seeds were removed the cotton fiber had to be
carded then spun to make
thread. Thread could then be weaved into
fabric from which clothes could be
made. As hard as this process was
they did not have many changes of clothes.
After
noon we headed to St. John Cathedral, Cemetery and 500 year-old
live oak. The
Dutch Gothic Cathedral built in 1916 is located in the
old down town area of
Lafayette. This magnificent structure serves as
the seat of the Diocese of
Lafayette. Equally impressive was the 500
year-old live oak. We have seen historic
live oaks before but this
one was head and shoulders larger than the others.
This tree has a
girth of 28' with a limb span of 145'. The cemetery inters
many of
Lafayette's founders plus several Civil War generals and an
Ambassador.
To finish off the day we stopped by the "Blue Dog" café,
a white table
cloth place. Mother had crab and corn bisque plus bread pudding
with
pecan praline sauce.
Every time we stay in this RV-Park we are reminded
of our friend
"Berliner" that told us about the place. Thanks, Berliner!
Friday,
May 2, 2003
Acadian RV-Park operated by the City of Lafayette. N30º 15.340'
W91º
59.246': Site #70 with 50amps and water for $9.00 in a wonderful
shady
Park within several miles of downtown Lafayette.
Our excursion
today included New Iberia, Delcambre, Abbeville,
Intracoastal City, Kaplan
then back to Lafayette. In New Iberia we
planned to tour the Konriko Rice mill
and Avery Island. Konriko Rice
mill was not doing a tour for 45-minutes so
we decided to skip the
tour and opted for a tour of the antebellum homes along
Bayou Tech in
New Iberia. Then we headed to Avery Island for a tour of the
Tabasco
plant where the world famous Tabasco sauce is bottled. We always
enjoy
this factory tour. This time Mother enjoyed the tour with us.
She was fascinated
by all the mechanical gadgetry involved in the
bottling, labeling, capping
and boxing necessary to pack and ship
Tabasco sauce. Next we toured "jungle
gardens" also on Avery Island.
Part of the jungle gardens is an alligator
filled, 250-acre, lake with
a large Snowy Egret rookery in the middle. This
rookery has a lot of
help from man. The McIlhenny family that owns Avery Island
hire
workers annually to construct nesting platforms in the lake. The
platforms
have ordinary pilings with wooden cross members. Bamboo is
laid across the
long platforms like boards in a dock. Over 20,000
Snowy Egrets nest on these
platforms every year.
Our next stop was a tour of Delcambre noted for one
of the Gulf's
largest shrimping fleets. Then on to Abbeville for lunch and
a
history lesson. A French priest who named Abbeville after his home in
France
back in 1843. The town is noted for its two town squares that
give it a distinctly
Old World Charm. Steen's Syrup Mill stands
waiting for the fall sugar cane
harvest. Just down the street Riviana
Rice Mill is processing Water Maid and
Mahatma rice. We can only
imagine the activity around this place in the fall
when rice is being
harvested.
Like in Canada the French influence is
so imbued in this area many
plaques are in both English and French. Around
45 percent of the
people around here still speak French as a second language.
We lunched at Dupuy's in down town Abbeville. Our intention was to
sample
some crab bisque but the lunch special was flounder with a good
French cream
and crawfish sauce. So much for the bisque, it will have
to wait. Dupuy's is
a place we will return to. Abbeville is known
for their exquisite dining. Not
the "high-end" fancy places but the
good places people drive out
of their way to sample. Comeaux's in
downtown is supposed to be good, Black's
and Dupuy's we guarantee to
be good. Black's and Dupuy's specialty is oysters
with seafood of all
types following close behind.
After lunch and a
"drive by" tour of Stein's Syrup Mill and the local
Mahatma Rice
Mill we headed south of Abbeville to Intracoastal City.
This is flat country
just a few feet above sea level. Cattle ranches
and rice fields dominate the
land. Rice fields double as crawfish
ponds once the rice is harvested. Intracoastal
City is home to a huge
fleet of Gulf shrimp boats. We wanted to show Mother
the plethora of
huge, brightly colored steel shrimp boats. They were beautifully
painted
and in top condition. Vietnamese fishermen who migrated to
the area after the
fall of Vietnam back in the late 60's and 70's own
these immaculate vessels.
These 150' steel vessels represent
multi-million dollar investments. These
vessels indicate these
immigrants to our country have done well. Virtually
all these
gigantic steel boats had names with a Vietnamese flair. The
Vietnamese
work ethos has severely impacted the "good-old-boy" Cajun
shrimper.
From Intracoastal City we headed north to Kaplan. Kaplan is noted
for
their
rice mills and as being the hometown of Sammy Kershaw. A large
plaque in downtown
proclaims the place as Sammy's birthplace. For
those of you that do not know
Sammy is a Country Music artist with
multiple platinum albums. He is also married
to Laurie Morgan.
(Another Country Music artist)
Between Kaplan and
Lafayette rice fields cover 90% of the countryside.
This is rice country.
Saturday,
May 3, 2003
Acadian RV-Park operated by the City of Lafayette. N30º 15.340'
W91º
59.246': Site #70 with 50amps and water for $9.00 in a wonderful
shady
Park within several miles of downtown Lafayette.
We headed to Breaux
Bridge a few miles east of Lafayette this morning.
Breaux Bridge is a historic
turn of the century town on the banks of
Bayou Teche. Many homes from the turn
of the century line the bayou
north and south of town. We wanted to participate
in the "fun" at
Café Des Amis in historic downtown Breaux
Bridge. Café Des Amis has a
history of providing live Cajun entertainment
on Saturday mornings. We
have enjoyed the live entertainment and dancing on
other visits to
Cajun Country. However, the Crawfish Festival is in town this
weekend
and a sign on the door says they are CLOSED until Tuesday! We were
disappointed
to say the least. This has happened to us twice this
week. We would normally
go to the Crawfish Festival but it would
require much too much walking for
Mother. We change gears/plans and
decide to show her the western levy system
around the Atchafalaya
Basin. The levy is located on the east side of Henderson,
Louisiana a
short drive from Breaux Bridge. The levy constructed by the US
Army
Corps of Engineers runs from the Mississippi River around 70-miles
north
of here all the way down to south of Morgan City, Louisiana. It
is 18-miles
across the Atchafalaya Basin between the eastern and
western levies. The flow
of the Mississippi River historically ran
through here. However, the Corps
of Engineers designed a levy system
that now channels 2/3 of the flow of the
Mississippi down the channel
past Baton Rouge and New Orleans. By channeling
the river past these
two cities commerce was routed that way also. As the Mississippi
River
flows past New Orleans the river is about one mile across but
over 200 feet
deep. When the Mississippi River floods the Army Corps
of Engineers can open
huge gates and divert the extra flow down the
Atchafalaya Basin. With it being
18-miles wide the basin can handle
flood waters much easier than the main river
channel that is only
1-mile wide. Riding atop the levy we can only marvel at
the
engineering feet construction of this levy represented.
Near Henderson
there are a number of fish-camps, boat ramps,
restaurants, juke-joints etc.,
all located along the water's edge
inside the levy system. We visited several
of these to get the
"flavor" of life in these parts. Hundreds of
boat trailers were
parked around each of the boat ramps and fish camps. Each
fish camp
had docking for house boats. In these parts everyone who is anyone
has
a house boat. On weekends the family spends time here on the
river. Houseboats
are their Shangri-la.
McGee's fish camp/restaurant had a mounted catfish
that weighed over
100 pounds and an alligator gar over 200 pounds.
While
inside the levy we drove to Butte La Rose. If you inspect a map
Butte La Rose
will appear as a city. Ha! There is a country store, a
boat ramp and an intersection.
Joyce and I have done this trip before
and enjoyed the drive. What makes the
drive so interesting are the
private fish camps along the narrow road. Many
of the fish camps have
names or catchy signs in the yard. The one I liked best
was "Dad's
Pad when Mom's Mad". Next best was "The other Woman".
As night approached we drove to Eunice to partake in the Saturday
night
"event" at the Liberty Theatre. Liberty Theatre is part of the
National
Park System. Every Saturday night from 6:00 to 8:00 Cajun
musicians perform
in the Theatre while the performance is broadcast on
local radio. What makes
the performance unique is that most of it is
in French. Remember it is the
"French" Acadian influence that the
National Park is trying to preserve.
If you are ever in the area it
is a fun thing to do.
From the Liberty
Theatre we drove to Prejeans Restaurant located in
Carencro just north of Lafayette.
Prejeans is a world famous Cajun
restaurant. There was a 40-minute waiting
list when we arrived at
8:40. We waited! We enjoyed! The food and entertainment
were great.
In addition to the wonderful food, Prejeans has many wonderful
mounts
on display. One of a Jewfish in excess of 500 pounds, an alligator
that
is 14 feet long, a 200 pound alligator gar plus many other fish
and ducks.
When in Lafayette Prejeans is one of the places that
should be at the top of
your list of things to do. Prejeans is worth
a lunch date just to view the
incredible menagerie of mounted fish,
ducks, turtles and mammals not to mention
the wonderful food.
Sunday, May 4, 2003
We drove 92-miles from Lafayette
to Sam Houston Jones State Park, Lake Charles, Louisiana $12 per-night
full
hookup 30-amp. The sewer at most spots is not really accessible.
As a point
of interest, Catholicism was the only religion legally
allowed to be practiced
in Louisiana before the Louisiana Purchase in
1803. The early settlers practiced
"la messe blanche" (a prayer
service conducted by laymen) since the
priests visited so
infrequently. Slaves practiced the religion of their masters.
Free
men of color enjoyed social prestige, were economically independent,
engaged
in many trades, and worshipped in the same churches used by
whites. Slaves
sat in small pews on the side isles.
In 1803 France "owned" New
Orleans but by treaty it was being governed
by the Spanish. The Spanish Governor
had suspended the right of the
"Americans" to use the Port of New
Orleans. The ability to ship goods
out of New Orleans was of such importance
that the United States sent
statesmen to France to negotiate the use of New
Orleans as a port. At
that time all commerce west of the Appalachian Mountains
was via the
Mississippi River. The western boundary of the United States at
that
time was the Mississippi River. All the United States wanted was the
ability
to safely ship goods out of the port of New Orleans. France
on the other hand
realized that Great Britain was going to attack what
was then Louisiana from
Canada in the North and the Caribbean in the
south. France was so strung out
that they knew they could not hold
Louisiana so instead of granting us right
to use the port of New
Orleans they instead offered to sell the United States
the area of
Louisiana. That is how the United States acquired much of the
continental
United States west of the Mississippi from the Gulf of
Mexico to the Canadian
border. The selling price was $15-million
dollars.
I told you that piece
of information so you could understand that in
1803 when the United States
made the Louisiana Purchase the land
officially became part of the United States.
One of the things our
constitution grants and guarantees is "religious
freedom". So, after
the Louisiana Purchase settlers could worship as they
pleased. Isn't
that a neat piece of history?
After stopping by Edie's
for lunch we moved the motorhome to Lake
Charles, Louisiana where we spent
the afternoon in Sam Houston Jones
State Park.
Mike & Joyce Hendrix